travelogue-ketki: March 2018

Friday, March 23, 2018

Madagascar Part 3

To just recollect I signed off part 2 with the Indris -Phantom of the forest.

Day -15-November 21: Our day on the road:

From the forest lodge we travelled to Brickville and then by boat in the Pangalana canal ,to Palmarium Beach.The evening highlight was to go to Aiyee-Aiyee Island.

We left Antasibe at 4.00 am to reach Bricksville by 11.00 am. We saw the Madagascar Pranticole nesting on roof tops here. We stopped for tea and snacks enjoying the close views of Pranticoles. From Bricksville to Pangalana the drive was very bumpy (last 7 kms).

By 2.00 pm we reached Palmarium hotel which is accessible only by a 90 minute boat ride. The hotel itself has species of chameleons, geckoes, brown lemurs and the Indris. After the nature walk we went to our rooms on another island, which was very lovely. The whole Island had small cottages and it was as though we 15 occupied the entire island. We were rushed up to leave by twilight to another island called the Aiyee Island. Nobody is allowed to stay there. We went on the Hunt for the eerie creature- the extremely extremely rare 'AIYEE'. We were informed that only 4 live on this island and we have to be lucky to see one at least at the feeding station.

Waiting silently and patiently surely our luck paid off and we saw 2 of them come in. Elated cameras went madly clicking though I enjoyed them eating the coconuts which we put out for them. What a wedding anniversary gift I had. I could not have asked for a better GIFT.

Day 16 November 22:

We travelled out of Palmarium by 3.00 am since we had to catch a flight from Tana to Majunga. When we reached Feony- a message was received about our flight beint delayed and so we all halted at Feony for morning siesta- which turned out magical. A tree full of Madagaskar blue pigeons were still sleeping. Indris lemurs came too close to us feeding on nearby trees and whilst we were enjoying them the pygmy kingfisher sat on the overhead wire. The white throated Rail feeding in the nearby river, was a pleasure to watch .We forgot that we were awake since 3.00 a.m.

What a wonderful way to spend our morning instead of grumbling that our plane was late.

We reached Matunga late in the night and settled in Etina Kelly Hotel.

Day 17 November 23:

Breakfast with the Coquerel's Sifaka.-Amazing thought-"NO"-" REALITY Cute and cuddly they came visiting us while we were enjoying a day when we were allowed to sleep till 7.00 am. All packed up we left to reach Karonashe. We took a boat safari in the Betse Boka Estuary. Flamingoes, greater egrets, dimorphic egrets, common ringed plovers, greater and lesser sand plovers, curlew and terek sandpipers were seen at the shore line. We were extremely lucky to see the rare Sacred Ibis too. Greater and lesser crested and Asunder's terns were flying around. We enjoyed a lovely Beach lunch. Then we went shopping for Madagascar Vanilla at Karona market.

After settling in our big bus we were driven to Ankarafantsika National Park.

Day 18 November 24:

At 5.00 am we went for a morning walk in the Botanical garden which is a part of the park for 2 main birds-white breasted Mesite and Schlegel's Asity. Both birds were seen in pairs. It was extremely hot and I had not taken a shower as there was no hot water available at the forest lodge. There was no fan /or Ac too. After a quick breakfast we left for Belle vue trail. Got good views of Van dam's Vanga, Rufus vanga and the sickle billed vanga. France's goshawk was seen on the path. It was an excitng but exhausting day since the sun was really harsh on us. In all the excitement, everyone pushed me on a thorny bush which brushed on my cheek and it just missed my eye. A sharp cut close to my eye left a scar on my face. Hardly I had time to wipe my blood, when we were to load up the bus, to go to a nearby marsh where someone had seen the Madagascar Jacana.

Evening was spent near the lake Lacervolt where a Sea Eagle gave splendid photographic poses for all.

Night walk brought out-regular banded chameleon, dwarf lemurs, and Green chameleon.

Day 19 November 25:

It was a late start-6.00 am - No bath-no water in taps-long day of travel ahead.

Our Bus halted at a Marsh area-where a few African pygmy geese and a lone painted snipe were swimming and feeding. The rest of the troop went down in search of Harlequin Quail. I got a good view when it was flushed out. Randy, a colleague in our group did not see this bird at all and was quite upset about the entire episode. Lots of mangoes were sold on the road and we ate some too.

Reached Tana, stayed at the Carlton- 5 star hotel where finally I could wash and scrub myself well.

All of us assembled for the last time, wished goodbyes and spoke of highlights and retired for the day.

Day 20 November 26:

Slept in till late, shopped for some local chocolates and ready to catch plane to India (safe without PLAGUE) GOOD BYE TO A GREAT TIRING /EXHAUSTING BUT MEMORABLE TRIP.

Photographs of the day:

BRICKVILLE:

SEE THE TENREC HANGING ON WIRE

PALMARIUM

THE RARE EERIE( ET -LIKE) AYIEE.

DAY 17 :

DAY AT THE ANKARAFANTSIKA NATIONAL PARK:

MADAGASCAR GREEN PIGEON WITH CHICKS
JUST A RECORD SHOT (RARE BIRD)

THE BOTANICAL GARDEN -2 BEAUTIES
SCHLEMIEL'S ASCITY AND WHITE THROATED MESITE. It was so chamoflaged that i will be happy if you spot them in the photograph.

belle vue Walk:

RED FRONTED LEMURS

JACANA

SICLE BILLED VANGA

SELLING MANGOES-RT CORNER
LEFT LOWER CORNER- VIEW FROM FROM ROOM AT CALTON -TANA

# posted by KETKI @ 2:26 AM 0 comments

Saturday, March 17, 2018

MADAGASCAR-2

I would like to continue form part-1
we stopped on November 13 Monday day 8
TOOK THE SOUTH WARDS ROUTE AND REACHED IVATY
AT MOSA PARK :
We met a funny thin guide called MOSA. He was a hunter by profession,17 years ago but when he came in contact with GERARD (our local navigator for the whole trip), he became a herder
Do you know what is herding? I was very surprised to see Mossa with his sons go into the forest to look for a specific bird which PHIL would want us to see.They work as a team after spotting the bird, and tell us 9 birders to stand at one location.Then they would surround the bird in such a way that the bird is pushed out towards all of us and we get good views .There were no bird calls used to search the bird. A simple but efficient technique ,which I thoroughly enjoyed.
Highlights of the morning was sakalava weavers building their nests. About 50 grey headed love birds came in to invite us in the morning walk.
2 sulky birds-found no where else-Desert Mesite and running coua .
Enjoy the pictures of the morning at Mossa national park.-Also called Baobab forest.

Baobab
forest is also called Moss
forest

desert Mesite-difficult to spot bird

LONG TAILED GROUND ROLLER

Day 8 November-14-After packing we left Bamboo club,went MOSA Park and we saw a cute black shouldered lemur-sleeping in his hole. Then we went to LA TABLE-FOR 3 MAIN BIRDS

RED SHOULDERED VANGA,GREEN CAPPED CUOA,BUSH WARBLERS AND STRIPED JERY. It was very thorny ,I got scratched all over but did manage to see all the birds. Pictures now will be at the end of the blog.Went and stayed at Victory hotel - Tuliar

Day 9-November15-Early Morning was search for Sand grouse and one lone one showed up after a long time. Looked at shore line for waders but not much luck.Packed at left for BERENTY .This travel day had the most roughest road. On crossing some bridges all of said a small prayer when we

Crossed over. The unfortunate part AC of BUS was not working and I fell terribly ill.

Brent private reserve was amazing place to stay. We did the night walk for mouse lemurs and night jar.

Day 10-November16-I will call this day breakfast with seeing the dance of the SIFAKA-LOVED THEM cute cuddly and would dance on the forest floor. Ring tailed Lemurs which I had always seen on National Geographic channel,were in plenty here,and looked at us begging to throw some bread at them-BUT OF COURSE IT WAS NOT allowed. I forgot the rough journey and had the most enjoyable time here .Morning bird walk was good to see Madagascar Hawk.Went to stay at fort dauphin.

Day 11-November17-Travel day-caught flight to Tana.

Day 12-November18-Went to nearby Lake Rhodeo, where lots of duck species ,white throated Rail, and we saw the umbrella dance of black heron. Watched and thought of all the what's app videos circulated in Mumbai about this bird. Here I am watching it and enjoying the way it is catching fish.

We loaded up into the 4x4 cars to travel to ANDASIBE . Went to stay at Feony-A-L AL hotel. It means the call of the Indris. Birding on roadside saw Pranticoles. Pranticoles.WeWe had cute hotel-and wagtails would come to our balcony and we would get up with the call or song of the Indris-Biggest Lemurs of Madagascar.Loved the place a lot. Different experience.

Day 13-November 19-We left for Mantadia Park. It was walking up and down and rough back breaking but we managed to see the scaly breasted ground roller. Road side birding in the noon and evening , where nelson our guide herded the FLUFF-TAIL . We went to see the Madagascar long eared owl.Up above the tallest tree got glimpse the light was fading fast. I said two 2 days only heard the song of Indris but still had not got a glimpse of this Big lemur.

Day 14 November 20:20-started Started Raining and I had to return back from Indris park to get our raincoats. The other group members trekked up to see the short legged ground roller.We did catch up after brisk walk in short cut damp and soggy forest floors .Admiring a grey bamboo lemurs, feeding on bamboos. A very Unfortunate incident happened then. Phil our guide stepped and brushed open a bee hive and all bees came down on him and Gerard.Kiran too got caught, while the rest of us ran as fast as could up the hill. Luckily had Eu-de cologne which helped smoothen their burning sensation and then went down without very good sightings of the Indris. We shifted out to another hotel Ande-se be lodge. Clean neat place . Went birding in the evening with Nester.-Not much luck except nest of the Ibis.

Post some interesting pictures of these days and would take you to part 3 of Madagascar then .

Mosa Park: